Friday, 25 May 2007

6350 pants fitting problems


OK so usually I wear wide leg pants that have a waist facing, side zip and flow from the highish hip down. I include a very full butt alteration (extension of the back crotch curve by 2 or more inches) and they are OK. I decided I fancied some narrower leg pants and cut out these terracotta ones with a nice crotch extension for the butt.
The butt fits not too bad, but as you can see the front crotch is truly terrible and there are pulls on my full front thighs and full back calves.
I do have 'Pant for Anybody' but I can't quite find my problem in there.
I would appreciate the expertise of the clever fitting people out there and for the interests of research only have included these horrific front, back and side pictures.
Click on the picture to get it in full size.

6 comments:

Marji said...

There are several things going on here, but the very first thing is, the front crotch curve is too long and the pant is too tight at about 5" below the waist.
First, I'd open up the side seams down to about 7" below the waist, and then pin back together following your own body curves - you may need to insert a wedge if you don't have enough seam allowance.
When you look at the Burda crotch curve you'll see that the front crotch curve is very slight and the back is longer. The Big 4 tend to balance that out, which causes the trouble you're seeing on the front. Unfortunately, you probably can't shorten the crotch curve at the inseam because that would be taking width out of your leg, which you may need for the thigh - I'll go look at the pic again.

RuthieK said...

Thanks Marji. Yes I too thought the front crotch was too long. I have this problem in RTW as well so its me.

Marji said...

Hey Ruthie, it's me too, and in fact most of us.
Tis why we sew, (in part) to get a much better fit than in RTW. (and to get what we want, and to fulfill our creative urges...LOL)
I have to disagree with the poster who suggested just changing the leg of your TNT pattern to create a slimmer pant. That works to a point, but, when you change the shape of the leg you're also generally changing the way the pant falls from the derriere. I can suggest texts for pattern drafting that go through all that - but really, all you need is a couple of TNT's for the different pant styles you want.
After looking at your pics again, I think that after you add to the side seams you can try to remove some of that front crotch length by opening up the inseam and moving the front piece over only. Do it incrementally with a basting stitch and see what works - and don't be tempted to only do one side to see - do both or you won't know what is really happening.

RuthieK said...

Hi Marji, when you say 'move the front piece over' I don't really get what you mean sorry. I think we need to find some pictures! I was imaging taking a wedge out of the crotch curve about 6 inches down, putting a split through the dart to make the pattern flat again and then taking up the excess darts at the waist.

I do have some burda patterns though nothing much recent so I could try a muslin of some burda pants to see if their crotch curves work better for me. I have some lovely blue and white striped fabric I bought for DH PJs but he hates, ideal for this sort of job!!

Marji said...

Kathleen Fassanella describes that wad of fabric at the front of the crotch as a "wong" and writes about it here.
In order to understand crotch curves it's good to read all this stuff.
Did you read the linked info that MaryEllen (I think that's her name) gave you at PR? That stuff about the L rulers and the crotch depth and curve is probably what you need most to understand.
And go read Debbie Cooks musings on changing the angle of the pantleg to eliminate the lower leg drag lines here

I'd draw and scan what I mean, but our desktop computer is out of commission and the scanner software isnt' loaded on my laptop.I've given up trying to find a pic on the internet of the crotch curve that Burda does. Suffice it to say it's shaped differently - but, the more I read, the more I realize that may not be the total solution for you either, as you need the fabric for the tummy.

RuthieK said...

Hi Marji, I went and looked at all those links and saved them. I think for later....
My work around for the moment is to park these pants, and revisit later. And instead sew the old TNT wide leg pants in a drapier fabric so I can at least complete my City Safari SWAP.
Once the SWAP is done I think I'll then take some time out on fitting stuff and really get to know my crotch curves.
I think that I need to look at ways of making the front wider, but shorter.
I also ordered both 'Sewing Pants That Fit' by Singer Sewing and 'Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body' by Palmer, Pati to complement my Sewing Library but they will take several weeks to arrive.